People don't really think about switching in N Scale, but I have a switching layout that is 74"x14". Atlas/Kato locos are smooth runners and freight cars have come a long way.

I learned this the hard way and can't stress it enough. I've built many layouts over the years both HO and N scale but I had just about settled on N for  the most part and stayed in that scale for probably twenty years.  Then I decided a few years ago that my nerves and eyesight could no longer handle N scale and I switched to HO.  All well and good till I started trying to install the "door latches"  on an Accurail USRA coal hopper.  Those little suckers were as small as any N scale part I'd ever encountered. They probably would have been molded on a N scale hopper.  You cannot make the decision of scale based solely on size of parts and such things.  I'm pretty well settled in HO now and likely won't ever switch back to N but I do like to warn people not to make scale decisions just based on the physical size alone. There are always going to be tiny parts in this hobby and the larger the scale, the more numerous those tiny details become.

Michael

Thank you for your response sir - What I have in mind is modeling a layout of around the 1860's Era  with 4-4-0' steam engines - which would include the following - a couple of old wild west towns and a couple of gold or silver mines along with a U.S. Calvary Fort and an Indian village with wagons, stage coaches etc. - I know they used to make that old wild west equipment of What I want to do in HO scale but I'm not sure if they still produce that style of western equipment in HO or even in N Scale My Idea is to portray a larger layout of terrain area by using N scale - But if I have to I will try to accomplish the same thing in HO scale. - Anyway thanks for your input - "Happy Rails" to you and may Derailments never happen.

Well, I did N-Scale for 10 years and have been modeling in HO for the last two years. Both are great scales!

First Off know a small space does not mean N is the only way to go. You still have great options for HO including a "switching layout".

I would make a list of what your goals are for your layout. Examples may include short time frame to complete, continuos runs, long trains, lots of switching, passenger trains, realistic operation, operational yard, etc...

Your list will also help determine what scale works for you.

Once you have an idea of what you want , design before you build. There are computer programs, (Even the old Atlas software if you do a google search), and templates available if you want to draw out a design. Designing before you build can give you a good picture of what works and what does not including potential track problems such as sharp curves.

Other things to consider when choosing scales:

Level of viewable detail you want
Eye site ( Need reading glasses now so HO is easier for me to work on)
Availability of specific rolling stock, locomotives, and road names you want
Wanting to run long length rolling stock, passenger cars, and locomotives ( larger curve radius and longer turnouts come into play )
If your grand kids will handle ( HO may be more forgiving for young railroaders )

Most importantly is to have fun and enjoy yourself!

Thank you for your input sir - That's a lot of years of happiness you've had - I envy you - In reference to using your idea of steel stud framework - I can possibly do that I would just have to collect more folding steel bed frames at the local land-fill and at Desert Industries (D.I.) - I have my own welder and can weld all that stuff together into bench work frames, then bolt it to the walls of the travel trailer and then overlay that with wooden sections as needed for the track work - But seeing as how you've been in this hobby for such a long spell, I have a question for you ( or anybody else that can answer the question)  - this time I want to keep my layout as light as possible - On all my layouts prior to this, I used cut up cardboard strips, chicken wire, news papers and then covered all of it in drywall mud - But the reality of it all was that it worked great, but when finished, it definitely tipped the scales into the "Overweight" mode I needed to move the layout even a few inches - My daughter has been remodeling her mobile home and she has quite a few sheets of the "white" Styrofoam insulation left over which is approximately 4 to 6 inches thick  ( I know that most Model Rail Road Hobbyists use either the blue, or the pink denser Styrofoam sheets on their layouts to form mountains etc. which is usually only from one to two inches thick and is quite expensive to buy ) - But as I said - This time I want to keep the layout as light as possible - So my question is - Will this ordinary white Styrofoam work? - Another thing everybody swears by is a sound deadening item call "Homasote" and they have said they get it at either Lowes or Home Depot - (their nearest stores to my house is 48 miles away one way (96 miles round trip) I have checked their stores out online but neither one of them list anything called "Homasote" just "MDF" Board - So my question is is this "Homasote" listed under a different name than "Homasote" or is it the case that these stores no longer stock that item? - Well anyway, thanks for your previous response back to me - "Happy Rails" to you, and may Derailments never happen on your layout(s).

It is a different type of foam. The pink/blue foam is extruded and can be shaped. The white foam is beads fused together and is not really shapeable.

There are a few old time locos, Bachmann makes an OK 4-4-0 and Atlas makes a good 4-4-0 and a good 2-6-0. Micro-Trains has link and pin couplers, era correct freight cars and some buildings. Bachmann and Athearn mad freight and passenger cars. Republic Locomotive Works is a Nn3 company but has detail parts and buildings to fit your needs.

Some people will mention the Athearn 2-6-0 and 2-8-0. These are good locos, but date from the 1890's

Since you retired, give those aging eyes a break. Put all the N and HO on ebay and switch to S scale.

Hi Again Prospector,

Homosote is a pressed paper product.  It deadens sound very well and takes glue readily.  It's also incredibly dusty when you're cutting it.

A lot of the people in Ohio are using foamcore.  It's two sheets of cardstock with expanded foam between then.  It comes in 1/8" to 1/2" thicknesses.  It cuts with a utility knife, makes no mess and is much lighter than Homosote.

The white foam will work, but be prepared to work with a file/knife in one hand and a vacuum cleaner in the other.  The little balls you cut off are static charged and stick to everything.  The pink/blue foams are a little stronger and much cleaner to cut and shape.

Regarding steel studs, they can be cut with a tin snips and attached with pop rivits or sheet metal screws.  The only thing to watch out for are the cut edges...they are razor sharp...so wear your gloves when cutting.

Try building a 1' x 2' section using the various materials to see what you prefer working with.  Different strokes for different folks applies.

First more about homosote. It absorbs water like a sponge and will warp anything put on it unless it is painted. Experience speaking hear on the warping issue. That is one of the reasons it is getting harder to find in places. 

Frame work for layouts. steel studs may not be nessicary. There was a very long running series in the Gazette, where the owner eventually put his HOn3 layout into a mobile home that he bought just for that reason. Harry Brunk's Clear Creek series. He tore out most of the insides and I think added a couple of cross pieces the 2 or 3 times he had it moved at least once was over a dirt road. He didn't have any issues.

Jack

You've probably ruled out N scale if you are going to model 1860's, for steam options HO will probably be more viable.  Steam isn't N scales strong suit; I know I"m going to get a reaction to that statement but there is definitely less options in steam in N.