You right Peter Those brackets aren't level so used washers to balance it flat You need to use the double hook ones. This a pic of my worst nonlevel one. some lean forward others mostly back. but a screw into the wall fixes it strong. ..James
Thanks for the feedback ... I went back and forward on what track to have peco seems robust and well made but once you hold a Tillig Elite turnout in your hand you realize there is know non-prototype hinges on the switch blade thingys (not sure what they are called) you can't go back. Here are the three points I tossed up on .. well four.
Micro Engineering - weathered but only 1 point size
and I bought and tried there flexi track looks good
but I think it would be hard to lay but it points not good.
Tillig Elite 83 - This looks beautiful track
You can space the sleepers on a flexi track to match USA
comes weathered- You can bend this turnout slightly to fit
Fast tracks (being a newibe this was a little out of the question)
Peco 83 Limited sizes and those hinges
Considering how much I had to pay for an Steam engine the track is cheap I thought.
what do you think.
Coincidence has it that my train room is the same size as Trackin's, 11'x14'. I wanted two levels, the bottom one Northwest-inspired sea level, the top one desert scenery. I needed 2 ft/60 cm between each. Without a helix, no way. Yes, an helix is landscape-less running, but it's the only way to have continuous running somehow from one level to the other. I mean, in a room of this size. Larger rooms appeal more sexy solutions. But with a small room which is what it is, we have to do with what we have.
>>...once you hold a Tillig Elite turnout in your hand you realize there is know non-prototype hinges on the switch blade...<<Top picture on page 23 of the Apr 17 Miba (German magazine) distinctly shows the closure rails as flexible, no hinges. Sorry if Miba is wrong or out-of-date. I don't have the problem since I am into laying my own turnouts on ties laid on the very specific turnout "shape" I need. And so I file my closure rails on demand, flexible, no hinges.
Small or slight bigger room can be an art installation it is the right size to see the whole, to sit and watch with a drink - its an atmosphere created by the viewer who wrestled with the function versus beauty conundrum, comprise, trade off. etc
I suppose it is the same problem an author has. Not to make the story too big, not to put in too much detail, demand difficulty, image an adventure but make it real, preserve the history -make it make sense.It builds the spirit to create. Every space small or big can fit a railway, even my little room of eleven x fourteen. But what do i know i'm a newbie, it is yet to be seen. James
Hi J, While the phrase "It's your railroad so you can do whatever you like.." gets thrown around a lot. In general new designers tend to make many of the same mistakes which results in dissatisfaction with the end result after lots of construction effort. Numerous lists of common design errors have been published over the years, here is one list that covers most (all) of the common design mistakes:
I believe you would be more satisfied with the end result if you:
Leave space for scenery
Avoid grade separated tracks right next to each other (unless you like to see dense sea of retaining walls and bridges everywhere). You can do this by keeping your higher elevation track mostly at the back.
Avoid long stretches of hidden track
On the other side of the coin you have avoided the following common errors:
4x8 sheet drives the design
Wide bench work and hard to reach areas.
Hand sketched track plan full of #2 turnouts, 15% grades and 12" radius (HO) curves.
So where do you go from here? If this is your first layout I would consider something less complicated and take advantage of the TOMA approach. Then after the first module you may learn what you like and do a total redesign with the option of incorporating the first module. Also it doesn't hurt to read John Armstrong's book and browse through Byron Hendersons web site: http://www.layoutvision.com/
is going to depend more on the design of the layout than the details of the turnouts. The Virginia creeper as a branchline would look more realistic with a simpler track plan. I'd strive for a few prototype based layout design elements spaced around the room, either one level or multiple depending on how much work you want to do. If a helix seems too intrusive you could use a train elevator which should be able to hold shorter branchline trains. For track BTW I'd go with whatever is easy to find at a decent price in your area, Atlas code 83, Micro Engineering, Peco ,or ??? ,it all looks fine when layed in a realistic configuration and ballasted and weathered.......DaveB
I have not experienced brackets not being level. The brands I find here are of German or French make, and they are perfectly level and square. Whether the single- or the double-slot models. Perhaps other brands and/or of other origin, do not obey the same specs or quality.
In addition, on the brackets I attach a piece of plywood. Look at the pic (sorry it's of bad quality, was not shot to be shared). It shows a single-slot bracket at left center, with the piece of plywood screwed on the back face of it. At this point, should there be any mislevel with the bracket, it is very easy to adjust the plywood level before screwing it.
The purpose of the piece of plywood is to create a face on the front of the layout, on which to screw a fascia. The latter is shown, painted green.
Another piece of fascia is visible on the level under. On this level is also visible a 1 1/4" extruded styrofoam panel. Not visible is an other same panel underneath. Both panels are laminated together with Liquid Nail, after scraping both faces for the glue to grasp well. The resulting 2 1/2"-thick styrofoam panel is the base of my layout. A home-made TOMA, sort of?
This is how looks the overall structure of my layout. As for dimensions, there are 25" (63 cm) between the track visible at the bottom level, and the track at the top level. And 11" between the lower and intermediate level. With an helix linking the three levels, to allow for continuous running from the top level to the mezzanine to the bottom, and return to top. That will account to a ballpark estimate of a five-mile-plus continuous run back-and-forth.
To whomever may think this structure is too light and not strong enough, I would answer that a critical element I have to take in consideration, is how to dispose of my layout when I am gone to the Inferno Model Railroad Club (they have one in Paradise too, but I can't qualify). In fact, my future heirs won't give a heck for the layout (they already don't today). Let me just say that it will be much easier to dismantle and city-dump a layout made of loose panels and light frames, rather than of heavy timber and L-girder.
They look like solid brackets Phil. Mine were/are more light weight. So built a frame first to go on the brackets.Dining room table acts as a great bench surprising the wife didn't seem to mine.
I told her she'll love Train Board furniture. She allowed me to make it on the Kitchen Table.
Comments
Scarm 3D pic View
Its a terrace 60mm step but with creative scenery ideas the idea is to separate the levels. There is about 100 -120mm space for bridgcrossing.
The red area is able to access the yellow track (staging) and it will also accessible up from underneath.
in the other corner there will be a liftup bridge 3 tracks need to align well.
http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/comment/reply/30120/285775
James B
Shelf Brackets
You right Peter Those brackets aren't level so used washers to balance it flat You need to use the double hook ones. This a pic of my worst nonlevel one. some lean forward others mostly back. but a screw into the wall fixes it strong. ..James
James B
Thanks for the feedback ... I
Thanks for the feedback ... I went back and forward on what track to have peco seems robust and well made but once you hold a Tillig Elite turnout in your hand you realize there is know non-prototype hinges on the switch blade thingys (not sure what they are called) you can't go back. Here are the three points I tossed up on .. well four.
Micro Engineering - weathered but only 1 point size
and I bought and tried there flexi track looks good
but I think it would be hard to lay but it points not good.
Tillig Elite 83 - This looks beautiful track
You can space the sleepers on a flexi track to match USA
comes weathered- You can bend this turnout slightly to fit
Fast tracks (being a newibe this was a little out of the question)
Peco 83 Limited sizes and those hinges
Considering how much I had to pay for an Steam engine the track is cheap I thought.
what do you think.
James B
Helix, and Tillig turnouts
Coincidence has it that my train room is the same size as Trackin's, 11'x14'. I wanted two levels, the bottom one Northwest-inspired sea level, the top one desert scenery. I needed 2 ft/60 cm between each. Without a helix, no way. Yes, an helix is landscape-less running, but it's the only way to have continuous running somehow from one level to the other. I mean, in a room of this size. Larger rooms appeal more sexy solutions. But with a small room which is what it is, we have to do with what we have.
>>...once you hold a Tillig Elite turnout in your hand you realize there is know non-prototype hinges on the switch blade...<<Top picture on page 23 of the Apr 17 Miba (German magazine) distinctly shows the closure rails as flexible, no hinges. Sorry if Miba is wrong or out-of-date. I don't have the problem since I am into laying my own turnouts on ties laid on the very specific turnout "shape" I need. And so I file my closure rails on demand, flexible, no hinges.
Small or slight bigger room can be an art installation
Small or slight bigger room can be an art installation it is the right size to see the whole, to sit and watch with a drink - its an atmosphere created by the viewer who wrestled with the function versus beauty conundrum, comprise, trade off. etc
I suppose it is the same problem an author has. Not to make the story too big, not to put in too much detail, demand difficulty, image an adventure but make it real, preserve the history -make it make sense.It builds the spirit to create. Every space small or big can fit a railway, even my little room of eleven x fourteen. But what do i know i'm a newbie, it is yet to be seen. James
James B
I think you might be right
I think you might be right Dave ...but why have 2 laps if you can get 3 also 3 laps allows one to climb easier to 180 mm ..James
James B
Common Design Errors
Hi J, While the phrase "It's your railroad so you can do whatever you like.." gets thrown around a lot. In general new designers tend to make many of the same mistakes which results in dissatisfaction with the end result after lots of construction effort. Numerous lists of common design errors have been published over the years, here is one list that covers most (all) of the common design mistakes:
http://www.cke1st.com/m_train5.htm
I believe you would be more satisfied with the end result if you:
On the other side of the coin you have avoided the following common errors:
So where do you go from here? If this is your first layout I would consider something less complicated and take advantage of the TOMA approach. Then after the first module you may learn what you like and do a total redesign with the option of incorporating the first module. Also it doesn't hurt to read John Armstrong's book and browse through Byron Hendersons web site: http://www.layoutvision.com/
Regards
Jan
The realism
is going to depend more on the design of the layout than the details of the turnouts. The Virginia creeper as a branchline would look more realistic with a simpler track plan. I'd strive for a few prototype based layout design elements spaced around the room, either one level or multiple depending on how much work you want to do. If a helix seems too intrusive you could use a train elevator which should be able to hold shorter branchline trains. For track BTW I'd go with whatever is easy to find at a decent price in your area, Atlas code 83, Micro Engineering, Peco ,or ??? ,it all looks fine when layed in a realistic configuration and ballasted and weathered.......DaveB
Read my blog
Brackets and fascia
I have not experienced brackets not being level. The brands I find here are of German or French make, and they are perfectly level and square. Whether the single- or the double-slot models. Perhaps other brands and/or of other origin, do not obey the same specs or quality.
In addition, on the brackets I attach a piece of plywood. Look at the pic (sorry it's of bad quality, was not shot to be shared). It shows a single-slot bracket at left center, with the piece of plywood screwed on the back face of it. At this point, should there be any mislevel with the bracket, it is very easy to adjust the plywood level before screwing it.
The purpose of the piece of plywood is to create a face on the front of the layout, on which to screw a fascia. The latter is shown, painted green.
Another piece of fascia is visible on the level under. On this level is also visible a 1 1/4" extruded styrofoam panel. Not visible is an other same panel underneath. Both panels are laminated together with Liquid Nail, after scraping both faces for the glue to grasp well. The resulting 2 1/2"-thick styrofoam panel is the base of my layout. A home-made TOMA, sort of?
This is how looks the overall structure of my layout. As for dimensions, there are 25" (63 cm) between the track visible at the bottom level, and the track at the top level. And 11" between the lower and intermediate level. With an helix linking the three levels, to allow for continuous running from the top level to the mezzanine to the bottom, and return to top. That will account to a ballpark estimate of a five-mile-plus continuous run back-and-forth.
To whomever may think this structure is too light and not strong enough, I would answer that a critical element I have to take in consideration, is how to dispose of my layout when I am gone to the Inferno Model Railroad Club (they have one in Paradise too, but I can't qualify). In fact, my future heirs won't give a heck for the layout (they already don't today). Let me just say that it will be much easier to dismantle and city-dump a layout made of loose panels and light frames, rather than of heavy timber and L-girder.
Phil D.
Wall Brackets for Shelf Layout
They look like solid brackets Phil. Mine were/are more light weight. So built a frame first to go on the brackets.Dining room table acts as a great bench surprising the wife didn't seem to mine.
I told her she'll love Train Board furniture. She allowed me to make it on the Kitchen Table.
James B