Couplers

I have been tinkering with model railroading. Not nearly enough time to do everything I want here! I am now using updated DCC equipment but found some of my old cars.... 60's and 70's???

The couplers are different. Who has a recommendation of how to upgrade. What works best (and easy to switch out)?

You experts out there have never let me down before!

 

Thanks,

Gene

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Fastening track/roadbed

Gene: Last year, I started a new layout. Decided to use as little metal as possible. So: I started with 2" pink foam. Painted it. Used some posterboard for roadbed. Cut to width, two layers for height. (as apposed to cork) Used PECO code 83 track. You need to make decisions up front. Solder rails, solder feeders, drill holes. I spread caulk/DAP Alex on the painted foam where the roadbed goes. Laid first layer of posterboard/roadbed with caulk. I also spread more caulk over the lower posterboard for the next layer of roadbed. And spread the same caulk over the top of the roadbed for the track. After all aligned properly/and this is done 3' at a time so I could get it all set up and then weighed it down with nothing more than 2x4's. Left it dry/set overnight. I could do 3' at a time and was able to get quite a bit done in an evening. Caulk takes a few minutes to stick, but needs overnight to set. I did caulk roadbed all the way, except where turnouts went. All turnouts are not caulked down. But my point is: This caulked sandwich is over a year now and shows no sign of coming loose or whatever. And when I needed to pry up and shift the track over, was as easy as could be. Pried/popped up with a 3" putty knife. And re-caulked with no problems. Sorry about being long winded, but this whole situation was as easy as could be. And a lot easier than spikes or nails. And it's NOT glue, so it's not permanent. And Elmers comes up only with water - soaked. The caulk needs no water, and is so clean. Last thought: the caulk is spread very thin. Just enough to spread about an inch for HO. PECO ties are a smidgen more than an inch, so the caulk does not ooze out. If a bit gets up between the ties, it's not enough to worry about. Ballast will fill in.

Morgan Bilbo, DCS50, UR93, UT4D, SPROG, JMRI. PRR 1952.

Power Cab Installation issue

I have watched the videos. My 6 wire flat cable is hooked into the left port on the Power Panel. Adapter is plugged in to the back. Before doing this, I did check that there was the proper voltage coming out of the plug that goes into the Power Panel so the adapter is working fine. Little black plug for the wires to go to the bus line only goes into Power panel one way. I have attached two wires that are 18AWG tinned copper stranded wire. My little red light comes on but I get no voltage at the end of the wires that would attach to my bus line. Anyone have ideas as to where my issue could be?

I tried calling NCE but they are only there from 9-4 which is not helpful to me as I still work!

Thanks all.

posts

Also new to "posting" these entries. If I want to list a new topic such as my new issue of not getting voltage out of my Power Cab, what do I do to change the subject line or do i just start a new post?

Ask your question in the

Ask your question in the Electronics forum.  It's called the "Track and Electrical" forum.  Go back to the home page for forums, scroll down the list of forums, you'll see it.

Mike.


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