Your situation sounds tailor made for TOMA, The “One Module” Approach.

TOMA lets you start small and get something operating quickly as you build your skills. Then if you want more layout after mastering the first module section or two, you can just add on to what you’ve already done, evolving as you go. If you feel the need to replace earlier work because your skills have improved, that’s easily done.

Use our MRH TOC search (under the magazine menu) to find all that we’ve written about TOMA.

You DON’T need to have the photos hosted, you can upload them to MRH and then link to that. I’m sure Joe will post a link to a tutorial page. Welcome and as has been said, just start building. You’ll work out what you like soon enough.

Joe's response: Yep, posted that right here: mrhmag.com/node/38494#comment-417730

I didn't know this, I'll have to check it out, as my Photobucket is still missing in action.

I will check this out, 

Thanks, and thanks Joe!

Mike.

So I have purchased Atlas HO Code 83 flex track. So I am committed to that! I'mgoing to build something. I can grow from there.

Items that I need opinions on:

Issue 1: I mentioned remote turnouts and the sales person suggested manual with Tortoises. He also suggested PECO turnouts as he is having trouble getting Atlas track. I can order these online if I hear that is a good way to go.

Issue 2: When I mentioned that I was going to go DCC and planning on using the NCE 524025 Complete DCC Starter Set, I was told that I was locking myself in and that it was not expandable. He suggested going with the Digitrax brand. Advice please. Why would it be called a starter set if not expandable?

Thanks,

Gene

For controlling the turnouts consider the Caboose 202s manual ground throws and set yourself up for success.  Yes they are a little big and toy like but they are dead simple to install, have bullet proof operation, cheap to get,  and can be modified (there was several comments last week of half burying them).  You can always change them out after the fact and they are reusable if you have a "do over".

https://www.modeltrainstuff.com/caboose-industries-ho-5202s-ground-throw-sprung-5-pack/

When it comes to DCC it's like the Chevy vs Ford thing. Since you don't have anyone you hang out with there is no need to match their gear.  If the local shop is a Digitrax fan consider that since you now have a local resource to interact with and ask questions of.  They should also stock parts needed.  I use the original Digitrax Zephyr DSC 50 and am very happy with it.  Even more so since I added the wifi interface which lets me trains through a free phone app.

you might want to see what other customers think of his support, if you can locate any.  He might be happier selling Digitrax equipment, than teaching you how to work with it.

Just a thought.  I've had a dealer like that.

Blair

If I go with manual turnouts with Tortoises (DCC system), can someone tell me if I need Insulfrog or Electrofrogs? I'm so ignorant. Nope, I'm going to learn so mush and enjoy doing it!

Gene

I think your sales guy is giving you just plain BAD information.  He either doesn't know what he's talking about or is purposely trying to sell you something else.  Normally, I try to be a bit nicer, but this is just plain wrong.

The PowerCab is 100% upgradeable with no parts being wasted.  If you want to add a 5 amp booster the PowerCab plugs in and becomes a ProCab.   The leftover PCP (PowerCab Panel) and power supply are moved to your programming track, where your PowerCab works as your programming cab.  The ability to upgrade the PowerCab without wasting money is one of it's key features.

The Digitrax starter sets are also upgradeable.  Both companies give upgrade paths.

I believe you said earlier that you preferred a starter system that would let you walk around.  The PowerCab seems like it fill the bill.

gs

"If I go with manual turnouts with Tortoises (DCC system), can someone tell me if I need Insulfrog or Electrofrogs?"

  You could use either. Insulfrogs have a short unpowered area which some folks don't like but they can be fine most of the time. If you get tortoise switch machines they have a set of contacts built in so it would be possible to power the frogs of electrofrog turnouts from the tortoises, there was a recent thread here about how to do it. My advice is to buy one of each turnout type and wire up some test track and see which you prefer.You'll need to learn how to do this stuff when you start a layout so might as well start in small steps now and be ahead of the game later.......DaveB

All is not created equal ... code 83 track from different vendors is not all the same and not 100% interchangeable. Here are the different brands of code 83 track end-on:

Below is what you get if you try to connect Atlas code 83 with Peco code 83 turnouts, notice the railhead alignment issue (Atlas on top, Peco on bottom):

So what's the deal? Why so much difference in code 83 track rail profiles?

Basically, Atlas designed their code 83 track by starting with their code 100 track and just shrinking down the middle height. The railhead and base are the same, making the two connect together nicely. Atlas takes a "trainset" mentality and favors durability over prototype accuracy in this instance. 

This approach does make for a dramatically bulky rail profile that's nothing like the prototype. You can really tell the difference in closeup photos taken from a "railfan" viewpoint right next to the track.

Walthers followed suit, only they made the profile less bulky by reducing the railhead height -- but the railhead width and railhead base are oversized, per the same philosophy as Atlas.

Meanwhile, MicroEngineering and Peco follow a more prototypically delicate rail profile, giving a more realistic look to their code 83 track. It also means ME and Peco code 83 track do not mate well with Atlas and Walthers track without railhead alignment issues. The joints where these two kinds of track mate needs to be soldered to maintain a good rail alignment.

[shameless plug] I cover this and many other of the hobby's little-discussed trackwork bug-a-boos in my book Make it run like a Dream: Trackwork. The eBook is only $12 and loaded with stuff like this I wish I had known back when I started in the hobby. [end shameless plug]