To all,
A few of us are pooling our money together to get a 3D printer and we are looking for help on what would work best for us here are some detail:

Modeling G to N scale.

Only one of us has worked with a CAD program and would like to find a program that is easy to use for all user.

One question we have is why is one printer better then other.

Any help or suggestion would be helpful our budget is about $2500

Mike

Room lighting can cast shadows on your backdrop ruining pictures and viewing. A shadow of a tree or structure looks horrible on the backdrop. I have a tip on how to eliminate lighting shadows on backdrops and have used this method sucessfully on my previous Richlawn Railroad layout. The trick is to leave a small (2 - 3") gap between the back of the benchwork and the backdrop / wall. Next, place a light or lights underneath the layout where the light can shine up in the gap onto the backdrop. I used can style uplights with standard (dimmable) bulbs.

I’m talking about the moment when the thought: “Is it a model?” turns into “Yep, it’s a model”……….

I am curious about what people think are the primary culprits when it comes to realism killers.
This isn’t intended to be an opportunity to criticise people’s work but more a way of identifying improvement opportunities.

 As Prof Klyzr says “Aim to Improve” and there never was a better bit of advice.

Just found out there is such a thing as silver bearing solder paste.  Evidently, one spreads out some paste over whatever is is you want to solder.  Then, touch the iron to it and the paste burns off leaving a silver solder joint.

I like to use silver bearing solder for soldering point rails to throwbars as it's supposedly stronger than other solders.   I wonder if this stuff would work for that purpose?

Has anyone used this stuff in our hobby?  If so, on what?

Thanks, 

John C