DCC - Electrical

Eric H.'s picture

What's on Your Workbench - April 2021

All the sudden it's a new month! I hope you have been busy making progress. Let's see the latest from your workbench and layout!

Eric

 

Eric Hansmann
Contributing Editor, Model Railroad Hobbyist

Follow along with my railroad modeling:
http://designbuildop.hansmanns.org/

Need some help with decoder and LED

In the middle of putting a Loksound micro into a Bachman tank loco and i need some advise on installing LED's for headlights.  I have mini LED's that are listed as Forward current of 15/20 ma and voltage of 2.8 - 3.4V.  Attaching these to the Loksound mini what size resistor should i attach.  Does it go to the Cathode or anode side and does cathode or anode go to the blue wire ground on the Micro decoder.

 

Thank you all for your help

David Calhoun's picture

Shinnohara Switches

Have "inherited" a number of #6 Shinnohara switches from a dismantled layout. The will be cut in to my mainline where I have #4's to give me a smoother transition to my yards. These switches are in great shape but have a drop wire that has me stumped. It is connected to the outside of the frog guard rail on the diverging track. Have no idea why or what it would attach to. See photos attached.

Also, are these switches dcc friendly or do I have to have insulated joiners on the two inside rails like I do with my yard tracks? Thanks for your help.

Ditch Lights

Picked up a Scale Trains Operator w/DC only. Installed a TCS-T1 decoder in it that I had laying around.  Put it in a consist in the lead for the lighting effects with a sound unit trailing. Headlight is nice and bright, but can't get the ditch lights to work.

I am thinking maybe remove the wiring from the board going to the ditch lights and attach to new decoder. T1 says it's a two function. Does that mean the green & purple wires are of no use?

Will_Annand's picture

DB210 to non-Digitrax Base Station

I recently purchased a Digitrax DB210 as a friend stated I needed a power booster and suggested one.

I am trying to figure out how to connect it to my DCC++EX base station.

It seems the DB210 will only work with a Loconet system. OR am I missing something?

 

decoder selection

For the last 17 years or so I've pretty much just used NCE's D13SR decoder.  Until recently, it has had everything I've needed, good motor control, four mappable functions and affordability.  After I finished my rotary dumper and was loading more coal trains, I found NCE has a hard time with the sustained counting ties speed loadouts require.  Somewhere along the way I have two TCS decoders and I found they work well because they have BEMF.

Will_Annand's picture

Wiring an Arduino with push button and LED to control turnouts.

As I stated earlier, I received all the components necessary to power my turnouts.

I thought I had everything worked out as per the diagrams below. NOTE: diagrams updated with regard to the feedback I received.

Deane Johnson's picture

Battery discharge question with Prodigy Wireless Remote

My Prodigy Wiress Remote has (4) rechargeable AAA batteries (BTY 1000 - HW-IN).  I can charge it fully, turn it off, remove the connecting cable and leave it sit unconnected and not used for several days.  Over a period of less than a week, the batteries will run down to zero level.

Is that normal for rechargeable batteries, are mine defective, is there something in the Wireless Remote drawing them down even with it turned off, or what?  Anyone know what this is telling me?

Thanks for your help.

Deane

 

 

joef's picture

New TCS in-throttle consisting concerns

The new in-throttle consisting with the TCS throttles sounds handy but it also seems to bring with it some concerns.

Adding a second NCE throttle panel to the layout for shows

NCE PowerCab hammerhead basic system

I am building a small potable layout and would like to duplicate the throttle panel on the back so the layout can be used in ether direction, me standing at the back looking out at shows or standing at the front looking in when at home. I have no intention in moving around from the front to rear location or using a second controller.

Thanks


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