DCC - Electrical

dapenguin's picture

Look Ma, No Wires

As the title says, this is about none or minimal wires.  Some call it Dead Rail.  But as I am going to talk some about charging via the rails, I am not going to use that term here.  I am not posting this to get into DCC vr RC or who likes/dislikes touch pads.  This is to present one way to get rid of those pesky wires and rail cleaning.  

First some other discussions must be referenced:

Which booster for MRC wireless system?

I'm building what will be a fairly large HO layout and after scouring the internet I still don't understand which booster brands or models are 100% compatible with my MRC wireless system. Given the number of locos running at one time and bus runs limited to 30 feet, I think one or two boosters in the 3.5 to 5 amp range would be adequate until the railroad grows somewhat bigger, but I would like to choose from the widest booster selection while planning for future options.

Signal Naming in JMRI

I'm currently installing signals on my layout in JMRI.  What naming convention would you recommend for each of the 6 signal masts (and the 8 heads) on a siding (other then just a number)? 

Do full size railroad just number them or are they related to the siding name?

Digitrax DCS100 with SE8C, BDL168 and JMRI

(Southern Pacific Railroad)

Michael Watson's picture

NCE Excellence

I chose NCE when I first went to DCC, 1st for the way their controller felt and worked, 2nd because of the expandability and accessories available, and of course, because they were an advertiser in MRH. I bought the PowerCab because I was still learning DCC, and this got me into it inexpensively. It worked well, was easy to use and program, and eased my transition into DCC. It performed so flawlessly, that I bought a ProCab system, but continued to use the PowerCab at my work bench to do addressing and test loco's.

jimfitch's picture

Need help with wiring Shinohara #6 double slip switch for DCC

I have read many places that as long as you insulate the bifurcating end of Shinohara or Walthers code 83 switch (made by Shinohara) it will make those switches DCC compatible. Or you can cut the rail just past the frog.

So I have a Walthers Shinohara #6 double slip switch and that thing bifurcates at both ends so I assume I need to insulate the rails on all sides. So how do I power the rails on this thing? Help!
 

Cleaning up the power wiring -- Phase 1 (east zone) Complete

Well, this afternoon I celebrated being able to run a sound loco from one end to the other with no hickups or hangups -- save for the occasional spot of dirty track. All the zone lights triggered as they should have. And the hand laid curved turnouts were traversed without a hitch. Granted, it was my Rapido GMD-1... heavy enough to be well behaved.

geoffb's picture

SMA17 – Cheap Flicker Free Car Lighting for DCC, DC, and AC – a New Kind of KAOS

Model animation—bringing models to life—adds enormously to the interest and enjoyment of any layout or individual model!  Recently a fellow modeler (George hohon3) asked if there was a simpler and cheaper way to have flicker free car lighting in his passenger cars, without expensive keep-alive circuitry. I gave him some solutions already known in the hobby, but these were not satisfying him, nor me. I even referred him to the battery KOAS article in the November 2014 issue of MRH – but no, he wanted something simpler.

Using an arduino to inject DCC commands?

Hi All,

I''m hoping that someone with more EE knowledge than I have can help me with a project I've been working on.

My layout is DCC; I use an NCE Powercab (which supplies the power and DCC commands). My turnouts are DCC concepts Cobalts, with DCC decoders. I use the Powercab DCC accessory buttons to throw the turnouts. This all works fine. I also have numerous animations that are all controlled via DCC as well (via Tam Valley Singlet servo controllers).

jmt99atsf's picture

Weekend Project - Installing a Digitrax Sound Decoder in an N-scale Kato E8A with an Aztec frame

I have some great running N-scale Kato engines (E8 A/B, PA-PB-PA) as well as a BLI Paragon2 sound equipped E8A/B set. But I was really interested in seeing how sound could be added to at least some of the Kato “A” units.  

HO 1950's/60's NYC-ish 7'x17' Layout

Building a layout for a client in his 3rd-floor game room based on Monticello, NY in late 1950's/early 60's:


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