DCC - Electrical

wp8thsub's picture

Genesis and Proto 2000 Performance Problems

Ever add locos to your roster and feel this urge to stomp them into oblivion soon thereafter?  Time to vent!  Let's consider a couple of examples...

OSCR's picture

Condo/Loft with a model railroad

In my first post I talked about moving to a smaller space, a condo in Toronto with my girlfriend and how I could accommodate my passion that is my model railroad, the Ontario South Central. Well, we found a lovely place. Its an open concept loft style condo. We fell in love with our brand new living arrangement instantly. The main living room, dining and open concept kitchen is a good size for the price in Toronto at 20' x 12'. After signing off on the place I was thinking, how would I instill my passion for model railroading in this place? 

Why is polarity important for DCC?

Why is polarity important for DCC?

This is a fundamental electrical question regarding DCC. I have started educating myself and I know if I just follow prescribed wiring rules, everything will be fine. So, this is a question of understanding, rather than one of practical importance. There is a lot of vague information and unabashed misinformation about the electrical characteristics of DCC and it's a rare article that presents clear facts.

Here's what I think I know, so please correct me, if I'm wrong:

JC Shall's picture

Control Panels

I've been sketching out my future control panels for the layout.  Despite the layout using DCC controls, I still like having small control panels at busy areas to show the track arrangement, and for the toggles and indicators for the switch motors.

Dgitrax sound bug

I have a HO Proto2000 BL2 that I fitted with a Digitrax decoder and soundbug, and loaded the GP10 file from the digitrax site. My problem is that it simply doesn't sound any good so am looking for an alternative sound file but have had no success so does anyone have any suggestions?

DCC for Vintage Steam

I have a Westside Southern Pacific MT 5 steam locomotive that has been upgraded to a can motor and constant lighting using a diode bridge across the motor leads.  This powers a 1.5v bulb mounted in the headlight with an MV lens.  It looks and works great. 

I would like to add a DCC controller with sound, specifically a Tsunami heavy steam 1 amp unit.  There is plenty of room in the tender for the decoder and a speaker.  I would like to reduce the number of wires between the engine and tender. 

kfglover's picture

Athearn Blue Box GP38-2 truck to frame arcing

I purchased a couple of mixed lots of HO equipment at auction. In this "stuff" there was a GP38-2  dummy and a powered GP50. I wanted the ROCK painted GP38-2. The BN GP50 had no details with it. After some research it appeared I could take the motor and power trucks from the GP50 and put it into the GP38-2.

Wiring a lift up bridge

Our HO club in Florida is building a module with a lift-up bridge for access. We have a design that we are comfortable will be sturdy enough for our use and yet portable. We would like to have some kind of micro switch designed in so that if someone lifts the bridge, power is killed for a short space on either side of the bridge to prevent accidents.

Do any of you have any experience with these? We are DCC if it matters. Thanks.

 


>> Posts index Syndicate content


Journals/Blogs

Recent Blog posts: