Ninety-eight percent of the mainline is in and work has progressed on the various yards and sidings. More track is needed and power drops need to be made. Please excuse the focus quality on some of the shots, but you'll get the general idea from these. Code 70 rail joiners are the hardest damn thing I've ever worked with. . . .and most everything has to be cut to fit - thankfully I own a Dremel!

I know; I know; the're old, but I really really want to convert one of my 6 (count 'em) Rivarossi NKP Bershires to DCC with sound. I got most of them for less than $15 at a yard sale a few years ago.

Can anyone walk me through parts and "labor" to convert one of these pole-type motorized engines to DCC? New Berkshires at $400 plus are a bit out of my range and I hate to have to give up these engines for scrap or something.

Here are a few photos from last year's modular visit to the Ft. Hunter Barn Christmas Show. At least one portion of the layout changes each year to bring excitement to the show. A craft fair and visits to the historic barn and village attracts hundreds of people each weekend. The club has been doing this show for over 10 years now.

Here are some shots from the club's recent Open House tour. Quality of the little megapixel camera isn't that great, but you get the general idea. I was recently asked to join and run the CTC Board with my friend Harry Owens. The layout is in an old historic building (substation for a defunct trolly line) and is roughly 25 x 70 feet. Much is undergoing reconstruction. Most of the conversion to DCC and an operating board has taken place for the past 4 years.

I need some advice. While the trackwork is progressing, I need to address the little mountain lake and the port area water.

Being colorblind (wore OD for many, many years) red/green dichromatic, I do see basic colors but want your suggestions on the colors to paint the bottom and sides of the lake and the "water" in the port area of the layout BEFORE I pour the instant water material.

OK, I've read the book from Kalmbach several times; let me see if I've got this correct:

A. Unless the switch is DCC ready, I have to gap the frog rails before and after the frog (Sihonhara Code 70 turnouts on sidings and yards - Code 83 mainline.)

B. Doing so means that I have to provide a power drop both BEFORE and AFTER each turnout for power continuity.

C. A 60 degree crossover means gaping where??? Power drop where??

OK, it's time to start on the harder portion of track laying. The two hidden staging areas now meet up with the rest of the layout and the switches that lead to them. Here's my problem: I can reach all of the layout switches for hand throwing without much trouble. However, I may want to "automate" some turnouts using a "Tortise" switch machine and I haven't a clue as to how to install them. I inherited these machines from an old friend who no longer models (age and infirmity issues) but have no paperwork.

Sunbathers believe they have found a secluded spot on the mountain, but it might not be as secluded as they believe. . . .LOL!

KPEG, "The Voice of the Valley" is now on the air. Peggy now has a place on the railroad as do other friends who are reflected in streets, signs, buildings and other named scenery.

Have finally completed 98% of the scenery (except for small details) that covers the storage tracks on the layout. the "Greater Nickel Plate" is showing some real progress. With rail arriving at the hobby shop by the end of the month, tracklaying can begin in earnest.

IKEA mini LED's came to my rescue! Since I did not have the money nor luxury of creating a higher ceiling and lights with valence without excessive cost and labor, I resorted to the next best thing. Taking an idea from pictures of a modular layout right here on this site, I searched for and and found some mini LED's that were both affordable ($15 on sale) and practical. With the normal lighting turned off, the new lights provide overall even lighting without glare and a very realistic look.