DCC - Electrical
digitrax UT4D throttle failure
My 5 year old grandchild was running a train with a UT4D when the speed changed to a crawl and the throttle had no ability to speed up or stop the loco. The only way to stop was to move directional toggle to neutral. Forward/reverse worked fine. I have checked loco out with other throttles and it works perfectly. Any ideas? Could the little fellow done something without realizing it? Hoping I won't have to send it to Digitrax for repair. Scotchman
Anybody done the setup for a Tsunami 1 on a ProtThrottle?
While I have a couple of LokSound locos I also have some TSU1 locos. I am just now contemplating setting them up for my PT. Any tips would be welcome
ProtoThrottle Milestone
Today, we just finished shipping all the ProtoThrottle pre-orders. Thank you to all who ordered, and to the MRH community where this all started. We look forward to seeing where this goes in the future.
BEWARE: short address is 0 to 127 and those numbers do not work as long addresses
As of June 19 2018 I changed the title as addresses problems had nothing to do with Kato and everyting to do with short vs long address confusion.
I just bought the KATO SD 90/43 SLRG #115 and #116. They work in DC mode. Using a Digitrax DH126PS the decoder can have its long address changed. When on a Run track the locomotive does not respond at all - no lights, no movement. Taking the decoder out and putting it in another locomotive the decoder works fine.
Digitrax/JMRI/WiThrottle server/ProtoThrottle brake issues
One of the two locos (both LokSound micros) I have set up on the ProtpThrottle always starts up with the brake set. I can't release it with the PT. I suspect this is a Digitrax issue but I don't know how to fix it. I can use my DT402 and release the brake and run the loco. I shut down the loco with ALL the functions OFF.
ProtoThrottle programming for both Loksound and Soundtraxx
Jared Seliger has produced three very informative videos on the ProtoThrottle. See below.
Enjoy!
Looking at getting soldering paste
I've been looking at purchasing soldering paste for a bit for trackwork (joiners, handlaid switches, etc.). My current go-to is rosin-core 63/37, 0.015" diameter, from Kester. It works fine on DCC installs and circuit boards, but it's pretty poor at putting together rails. Any advice? What's your favorite type?
Penn Lake 8: JMRI + Sprog
I run my layout using CVP's EasyDCC. While I like how it operates and especially the handheld throttles, the computer connection is royal pain, due to the serial RJ jack. You had to custom build a 9 pin serial to RJ cable, and I was never able to make it work.
CVP now offers the serial to RJ adapter, but when's the last time anyone saw a computer with a serial port. So now I would have to convert USB to SERIAL to RJ. Just seems like a recipe for problems.
CR&N - PI-SPROG
My layout is not big. It’s a 9x4:5 foot shelf-style switching layout that only runs one loco at a time. I started out using straight DC before switching over to a NCE PowerCab (nice system). I had heard about using wifi to control trains, so eventually bought an NCE USB adapter. It was amazing to put down the tethered throttle! But...I had to have my laptop up and running and wires running here and there. There had to be a better way!
Bluetooth controller for Engine Driver app
Steve Todd, Mr Engine Driver, has done it again! The latest version of Engine Driver includes the ability to use a small Bluetooth controller to operate your locomotives. I've been using Engine Driver for years and this ability is the greatest improvement to the app to date. The following short video I made shows how it works...
The controller is recharged via USB. Here is the controller...
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