DC - Electrical
OO gauge battery powered radio control
Ok, for those that are thinking about battery power and radio control. This engine is controlled by a DelTang 2.4Hz receiver.
Here's a close up of the engine uncoupling from the cars.
Want to add a Power light to my sidings with a LED
The only way it lights up is if a Loco is on the track and then it does not power up the Loco.
Do I need to change the type of switch or is not possible, to just show power on the siding?
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Thanks for any insight
RJ
Powering your locos with batteries: is it possible?
I've heard rumors, but I'm not sure how to make it work. Placing a battery/batteries inside a loco, wiring it up and using a controller of some sort to make it go forward/backward. Is this possible? If so, how please? I hate wiring anyway (because frankly, I stink at it), so anything I can do to make my locos run with a minimum of wiring/soldering works for me!
Loco stalling over the frog
This has probably been answered many moons ago over a very high mountain, but it's buried by now. I have a problem with an Athearn GP-9 stalling at slow speed over the frogs of turnouts. I've heard that there is a solution using either clear nail polish or nail polish remover, but I'm not sure which. If one of you kind gentlemen can give me the correct answer, I'd appreciate it.
Wiring and power for simple ovals with crossover
I have a n-scale oval on the console underneath my TV. The curves are 282mm radius. I want to put another oval inside this one with 249mm radius, and connect the two with a double crossover. I have DC power. Should I power each oval with separate power sources to provide separate speed control? If so, how do I wire the crossover?
norod
Radio Controled 2-6-0 Steam Engine in HO gauge
Just finished up the third steamer with radio control. Using voltage from the track to power both the receiver and the motor I can control all three with one transmitter or individually with 3 transmitters.
The engine on the right was the first to be converted to a 6 volt motor. The receiver works on 3-6 volts. This one needs the board redone so all components will fit inside the tender shell. The one on the left I added a plug so I won't have to un-solder the wires if I need to remove the board.
How I handled my craziest electrical short...
Because of some recent posts devoted to odd electrical problems, I'd like to see a blog started on how anyone has handle(d) these. (I'd prefer a MRH article but I'll take examples and helpful information on techniques wherever I can get them.)
For this blog I'd like to see folks describe, in as much detail as they're willing to provide, answers to the following questions:
Scale Model Animation 2 – LEDs and Lighting
Model animation—bringing models to life—adds enormously to the interest and enjoyment of any layout or individual model! In this installment I want to touch on more “points” on lighting and LEDs—likely more than you’ll ever want to know!
control panel lights
Was wondering if anyone can tell me of a way to wire in panel lights for tortoise switch machines at the panel themselves and not run wires from the switch motors themselves. Is there anyway to hook in the lights directly to the DPDT switches themselves. Would be using bi-polor lights on crossovers and regular red and green LED's to show normal and reverse.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Mabuchi motor specs?
I have two Mabuchi can motors for which I'm trying to find speed and voltage information.
The first is model FF-180PH. It is also marked below the model number "KN 15 81 10". The Mabuchi web side does list a motor with that model number, though it specifies an extension of the model number. The motor on the web site is a nominal 2.4V motor. I need to find out if that's the case for this motor as well, since I have several and would like to use them in a few models.
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