DC - Electrical
SMA16 –Harry’s TV Shop: New Working HO TV Models for 1964—“In Living Color” & New Sign Too!
Model animation—bringing models to life—adds enormously to the interest and enjoyment of any layout or individual model! Recently a fellow modeler (Rick Wade http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/21049) dreamed about building a working HO scale TV—and I wondered—is that possible? Then I found Harry’s TV shop and stopped wondering…
Atlas Consumer Update #57 switch recall
Atlas Consumer Update - #57 Switch Recall |
Need some Arduino code by Geoff Bunza
Good Morning
I'm trying to duplicate the hotel lighting project by Geoff Bunza in the Nov 2014 issue. I have a problem with the code for the sketch shown on page 102. I did a copy & paste to the ide. When I do a compile it fails. Does anyone have good code for this?
Ed
Electrical problem.
I've begun restoration on a 16'x16' layout I built some years back when my children were little. Now that they have children, the layout (having sat dormant for several years) takes on new meaning for play/build time with grandchildren. I never finished the scenic work, so it's perfect for little hands to plaster and paint. I'm running a Hogger and I've got lots of control blocks and remote switches, but something strange happens when I"m at the end of the stretched out cord....
Help, My Electrical System Refuses to Work
HELP! I have a DIY throttle system on my layout which is made using a Bachmann power pack with Cat 5 wire connecting a SPDT direction switch and a 1K Ohm Potentiometer enclosed in a Radioshack project case. I was running a train on the layout when the loco stalled. I moved it figuring it was a dead spot/ dirty track but the loco refused to move. After a few seconds, the loco would only move at slow speed even when the potentiometer was cranked up to full power.
Kadee #309 Electro-Magnetic Uncoupler Problem
I'm testing the first HO scale Kadee #309 electro-magnetic uncoupler that I mounted on my layout and I'm not able to get the HO couplers to separate. I'm pretty sure the electro-magnet is wired correctly as I can get a small drill bit to rotate on the track when the uncoupler is engaged.
Is there a color convention for LED indication for turnout status?
On my control panels and any dwarf signals I have used, a Green indicator = "Closed" (Through the turnout route) and Red = "Thrown" (Divergent route). In recent posts I have seen, some use the opposite color indicator, Red = Closed, Green = Thrown. Just curious if there is a generally accepted "standard" for Closed and Thrown color indictors.....
MRC Controlmaster 20
I have an MRC Controlmaster 20 walkaround power supply that went on the fritz yesterday. It has been a great unit for at least 12 years now. I had an engine derail, and when I set the engine back on, it took off at high speed. I am unable to control speed, momentum or braking with the throttle. Only thing I can do is change direction. As soon as turn on the power, whichever engine I use just takes off. All of the switches are properly set. Something must have shorted out.
Directional lighting using LED's and DC- is it possible?
I am planning the details around my future layout in HO, and will be using DC instead of DCC (due to limited finances and the fact I have a new-in-the-box MRC 20 Control Master walkaround throttle) and my question is: can LED's be used to make directional headlights/ditchlights? Is there a circuit done already out in the Internet that I can use or adapt? What about flashing beacons using LED's?
Thanks in advance for any help you can give me!
Al
Slow down and spped up
For Christmas I built the World Greatest Hobby layout with Kato track for my Nephews. During later stages in construction I thought I'd break in some of my own locomotives that had never been out ot their boxes. In doing so I observed some peculiar symptoms. After cleaning and lubricating some NOS Proto P2K engines I noticed that there were two spots on the layout where engines would slow then resume their previous speed. Interestingly enough they acted-up close to the two power feeds located 180 apart.
>> Posts index
Navigation
Journals/Blogs
Recent Blog posts: